HAIR SETTING AND STYLING PRODUCTS

Composition and Function:

Hair setting and styling products are aqueous dispersions of natural or synthetic gums. These products are applied to the hair before it is set. The setting or styling product dries to a fairly stiff, transparent film on each hair shaft and gives the hair good body and spring, keeping it in the contour of the set.

Natural materials such as gum karaya, acacia and tragacanth and various synthetic products like cellulose derivatives and carboxy vinyl polymers are used. By varying the amount of thickener, lotions or gels can be formulated.

The carboxy vinyl polymers, which are capable of forming gels with water in concentrations of less than one half percent, are used for many hair styling gels. Gelation occurs when the polymers (in free acid form) are dispersed in water and neutralized with a suitable alkaline material such as triethanolamine. Since the low level of polymers required to form a gel leaves a very low residue on the hair shaft, auxiliary resins such as polyvinylpyrrolidone may be added to increase the hair-holding properties.

Since the resins alone, when dried to a film on the hair, may tend to flake and give the appearance of dandruff, it is advisable to add a plasticizer.

Normally these gels are perfumed and frequently a solubilizing agent such as ARLASOLVE(r) 200 Liquid/Gel is required to carry the oil-soluble fragrance into the aqueous gel system. ARLASOLVE 200 Liquid/Gel, a clear low viscosity liquid, can be added to the perfume at low ratios for efficient solubilization. Because of its physical nature and nonvolatility, it also aids in plasticizing the resin film. TWEEN(r) surfactants are also used as solubilizers.

Formulation:

Formula HC-4 illustrates a hair styling gel based on a Carbomer resin and polyvinylpyrrolidone.

Formula HC-4
    HAIR STYLING GEL   %, Weight
A   Carbomer 940   0.33
    Sorbitol Solution, USP   2.00
    SDA-40 Ethanol, 25% aqueous   72.85
B   ARLASOLVE 200 Liquid/Gel   0.40
   

Water/denatured alcohol, SDA

Formula No 40, 75/25 Weight

% mixture

   23.07
   

Vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate

copolymer

   1.00
    Preservative   q.s.
    Triethanolamine   0.35
    Perfume   q.s
        100.0

Preparation:

Part (A)---Mix Sorbitol Solution with water/alcohol blend Disperse Carbomer 940 in the Sorbitol Solution water/alcohol blend using high speed propeller agitation. Allow the air bubbles to dispel. Part (B)---Add the ARLASOLVE 200 Liquid/Gel to the perfume with gentle agitation. Add the water/alcohol solution, PVP/VA, and triethanolamine in that order, stirring after each addition to insure solution. Add (B) to (A) with very slow agitation. Caution: ethanol is very flammable!