HAIR DRESSING AND GROOMING PRODUCTS

Composition and Function:

The primary functions of hair dressings are grooming, promotion luster or sheen, and conditioning. They contain animal, vegetable or mineral oils to replace depleted natural oils.

One of the common oils used in hair dressing is mineral oil. The oil content in a formula may vary from as little as 10% to as much as 90% to 95% in the case of brilliantines.

Simple mixtures of oils, known as brilliantines, or mixtures of oils and waxes, known as hair pomades, may be used as hair dressings. Both products impart a brilliant sheen to the hair.

Other oily or emollient ingredients such as isopropyl esters, lanolin and petrolatum may be used for their grooming effects. Waxes such as microcrystalline wax, beeswax, paraffin and fatty alcohols will increase viscosity as well as add to the total grooming properties.

Nonionic surfactants at 5% and 10% concentration may be used to solubilize perfumes or to "couple" immiscible oils. Hydrophilic surfactants may be used to make brilliantines and pomades water washable.

Sometimes mixtures of oils and waxes are molded in stick form for use as grooming aids for "crew cut" or "flattop" hair cuts. Nonionic surfactants may be used as the waxy components, or they may be added to impart washability to the oil-wax blend.

More esthetically pleasing hair dressing and grooming products can be made by emulsifying the oils or oil-wax blends. Both water-in-oil and oil-in-water emulsions are used. The water content may vary from 10% to 85% depending on the emulsion type and viscosity desired. Oil-in-water emulsions are often preferred because they are easy to formulate and have good application properties.

Many hair dressing and grooming products are clear emulsions. They contain a water soluble hair conditioner or an oil solubilized with a hydrophilic surfactant such ass a TWEEN(r) emulsifier. Sometimes alcohol, at concentrations up to 50%, is added to hasten drying.

Natural or synthetic gums may be added to aqueous products to aid in controlling unruly hair. The gum dries out on the hair leaving a continuous flexible film which holds the hair in place. Polyvinylpyrrolidone, gum karaya and gum tragacanth are often used, usually at 1% to 10% levels.

Preparation:

Heat (A) to 70°C. Heat (B) to 72°C. Add (B) to (A) with continuous agitation. Continue stirring until cream cools to room temperature. Replace water lost by evaporation. Mill to produce maximum smoothness and stability.

Formula HC-2 is an example of an oil-in-water hair dressing lotion. Two percent lanolin added to Formula HC-2 provides improved grooming an stability. No change in emulsifier content or ratio is required.

Preparation:

Heat (A) to 70°C. Heat (B) to 72°C. Add (B) to (A) with moderate stirring. Stir to 35°C and replace water lost by evaporation.

This formula was developed to provide good grooming, color, odor, high melting point, and rapid washability. Hair brushes stay clean and the user gets a light shampoo simply by standing under the shower.