FACIAL WASHING CREAMS

Composition and Function:

Facial washing creams, like cold creams and cleansing products, are used to remove makeup from the face and throat. However, they offer a combination of oil cleansing and soap or detergent cleansing actions. They are oil-in-water emulsions, and are usually formulated to have the soft consistency of cleansing creams. They spread readily on the skin, and as they are applied they whiten. When small quantities of water are added, the whitened cream foams slightly. The foam will rinse from the skin readily when additional water is added. These creams leave a pleasant-feeling dry film on the skin after the water rinse.

Facial washing creams contain about 15% or more of mineral oil and about 1% to 5% thickening agent, usually cetyl or stearyl alcohols. They usually include a polyol to provide good application properties as well as humectancy. The emulsifier should be strongly hydrophilic to promote washability and can be either a soap or a nonionic. Nonionic surfactants are likely to produce emulsions which whiten more readily on application to the skin. Cetyl and stearyl alcohols also promote this whitening effect.

Formulation:

Formulas SK-16a and SK-16b are facial washing creams in which the main ingredients are mineral oil and cetyl alcohol. Formula SK-16a is softer and has greater sheen than Formula SK-16b. ARLACEL(r) 165 Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate is the primary emulsifier in both formulas, and TWEEN(r) 60 Polysorbate 60 is used to promote the slight foaming action when water is added. Both surfactants are hydrophilic. Glycerin is used to provide good application properties and humectancy. It also imparts heat stability.

Preparation:

Heat (A) to 65°C. Heat (B) to 65°C. Add (B) to (A) with continued stirring until the emulsion temperature drops to 45°C. Add (C) and continue agitation until cool. Replace water lost by evaporation.