HAIR CONDITIONING PRODUCTS

Composition and Function:

Hair conditioners are products which are used to restore manageability, gloss, and soft texture to dry hair or to hair that has been damaged by bleaching, dyeing, permanent waving or straightening.

The basic components of conditioners are lanolin or lanolin derivatives. They are used at levels of 1% to 10%. Combinations of lanolin and polyoxyethylene esters have excellent capacity for moisture retention.

Cream rinse products are hair conditioners that are applied to the hair immediately after shampooing to help remove dull detergent film from the hair and to make it manageable, shiny, and softer to the touch.

Cream rinse products are usually dispersions of quaternary ammonium compounds, opacified if necessary with a water dispersible surfactant or an emulsion of mineral oil or a fatty alcohol. About 1% to 5% quaternary ammonium compound is used.

Both hair conditioners and cream rinses may be formulated to contain proteins. Cream rinses in addition may include antidandruff compounds and temporary dyes.

Formulation:

FORESTALL™ Soyaethyl morpholinium ethosulfate offers a dual functionality unlike any other hair care ingredient. First, it is a unique deodorizer. FORESTALL actually neutralizes various malodors by forming a complex with them.

FORESTALL is also a highly effective cationic hair conditioner which reduces static fly-away and leaves hair soft, shiny and manageable. It improves wet combability and does not build up with frequent use. FORESTALL is water soluble and compatible with anionics generally used in shampoos.

Since FORESTALL is water soluble, it is an excellent choice for clear hair rinses. In the basic formula shown below, hydroxyethyl cellulose is used as a thickener.
 
Formula HC-8
    CLEAR HAIR CONDITIONER LOTION   %, Weight
A   Hydroxyethyl cellulose, 3% aqueous   40.0
B   FORESTALL soyaethyl morpholinium ethosulfate   1.4
    Water   58.6
        100.0

Preparation:

Prepare (A) in advance by dispersing hydroxyethyl cellulose in water to yield a 3% solution. Prepare solution (B) Add (B) to (A) with stirring until homogeneous.

FORESTALL can also be used effectively in an opacified "cream rinse" lotion like the one shown below.
 
Formula HC-9    
CREAM HAIR RINSE   %, Weight
Cetyl alcohol    1.5
BRIJ(r) 721 Steareth-21   1.0
FORESTALL soyaethyl morpholinium ethosulfate   1.4
Water   96.1
    100.0

Preparation:

Heat to 70°C with stirring until uniform. Cool with stirring and add make-up water at 50°C.
 
Formula HC-10
    HAIR CONDITIONER LOTION

This lotion is typical of a modern rinse-off 

formula but has excellent freeze-thaw stability.

  %, Weight
A   BRIJ 721    1.3
    Cetyl alcohol    0.9
    Stearyl alcohol    0.6
    Stearalkonium chloride   0.5
B   Water, deionized   96.7
        100.0

Preparation:

Heat (A) to 70°C and (B) to 72°C. Add (B) to (A) with moderate agitation. Cool while agitating to 40°C. Replace water lost by evaporation and package.

Formula HC-11 demonstrates the use of FORESTALL in a surfactant gel which would be a good hair dressing. The formula is a clear (microemulsion), "ringing" gel.
 
Formula HC-11
    HAIR CONDITIONER GEL    %, Weight
A   Mineral oil   11.0
    ARLASOLVE(r) 200L Isoceteth-20   27.8
    BRIJ 93 Oleth-2   6.0
B   Water   41.8
    Propylene glycol    5.0
    Sorbitol Solution, USP   7.0
    FORESTALL   1.4
        100.0

Preparation:

Heat (A) and (B) to 90°C. Add (B) to (A) with gentle stirring. Cool to 80°C and add make-up water. Stir until uniform, and pour while still fluid.

A prototype styling/conditioning mousse is shown in Formula HC-12. It includes FORESTALL as a conditioner, a silicone copolymer to improve wet combing and polymeric resin for setting.
 
Formula HC-12
    STYLING/CONDITIONING MOUSSE   %, Weight
A   FORESTALL   1.4
    BRIJ 721   0.5
    Amodimethicone (and) Nonoxynol-10

(and) Tallowtrimonium chloride

  0.1
    Water   78.0
B   Vinylcaprolactam/

PVP/Dimethylaminoethyl

methacrylate copolymer

  5.0
    Ethanol, SDA-40   10.0
C   Hydrocarbon Propellant A-46   .50
        100.0

Preparation:

Heat (A) to 70°C with stirring until uniform. Cool to 40°C. Add (A) to (B) with stirring. Pack in suitable aerosol containers and pressurize with (C) at room temperature.

CAUTION: Ethanol is very flammable!