|
HAIR CONDITIONING PRODUCTS
Composition and Function:
Hair conditioners are products
which are used to restore manageability, gloss, and soft texture to dry
hair or to hair that has been damaged by bleaching, dyeing, permanent waving
or straightening.
The basic components of conditioners
are lanolin or lanolin derivatives. They are used at levels of 1% to 10%.
Combinations of lanolin and polyoxyethylene esters have excellent capacity
for moisture retention.
Cream rinse products are hair
conditioners that are applied to the hair immediately after shampooing
to help remove dull detergent film from the hair and to make it manageable,
shiny, and softer to the touch.
Cream rinse products are usually
dispersions of quaternary ammonium compounds, opacified if necessary with
a water dispersible surfactant or an emulsion of mineral oil or a fatty
alcohol. About 1% to 5% quaternary ammonium compound is used.
Both hair conditioners and
cream rinses may be formulated to contain proteins. Cream rinses in addition
may include antidandruff compounds and temporary dyes.
Formulation:
FORESTALL™ Soyaethyl
morpholinium ethosulfate offers a dual functionality unlike any other hair
care ingredient. First, it is a unique deodorizer. FORESTALL actually neutralizes
various malodors by forming a complex with them.
FORESTALL is also a highly
effective cationic hair conditioner which reduces static fly-away and leaves
hair soft, shiny and manageable. It improves wet combability and does not
build up with frequent use. FORESTALL is water soluble and compatible with
anionics generally used in shampoos.
Since FORESTALL is water soluble,
it is an excellent choice for clear hair rinses. In the basic formula shown
below, hydroxyethyl cellulose is used as a thickener.
| Formula HC-8 |
| |
|
CLEAR HAIR CONDITIONER
LOTION |
|
%, Weight |
| A |
|
Hydroxyethyl cellulose, 3%
aqueous |
|
40.0 |
| B |
|
FORESTALL soyaethyl morpholinium
ethosulfate |
|
1.4 |
| |
|
Water |
|
58.6 |
| |
|
|
|
100.0 |
Preparation:
Prepare (A) in advance by dispersing
hydroxyethyl cellulose in water to yield a 3% solution. Prepare solution
(B) Add (B) to (A) with stirring until homogeneous.
FORESTALL can also be used
effectively in an opacified "cream rinse" lotion like the one shown below.
| Formula HC-9 |
|
|
| CREAM HAIR RINSE |
|
%, Weight |
| Cetyl alcohol |
|
1.5 |
| BRIJ(r) 721 Steareth-21 |
|
1.0 |
| FORESTALL soyaethyl morpholinium
ethosulfate |
|
1.4 |
| Water |
|
96.1 |
| |
|
100.0 |
Preparation:
Heat to 70°C with stirring
until uniform. Cool with stirring and add make-up water at 50°C.
| Formula HC-10 |
| |
|
HAIR CONDITIONER LOTION
This lotion is typical of a modern rinse-off
formula but has excellent freeze-thaw
stability. |
|
%, Weight |
| A |
|
BRIJ 721 |
|
1.3 |
| |
|
Cetyl alcohol |
|
0.9 |
| |
|
Stearyl alcohol |
|
0.6 |
| |
|
Stearalkonium chloride |
|
0.5 |
| B |
|
Water, deionized |
|
96.7 |
| |
|
|
|
100.0 |
Preparation:
Heat (A) to 70°C and (B)
to 72°C. Add (B) to (A) with moderate agitation. Cool while agitating
to 40°C. Replace water lost by evaporation and package.
Formula HC-11 demonstrates
the use of FORESTALL in a surfactant gel which would be a good hair dressing.
The formula is a clear (microemulsion), "ringing" gel.
| Formula HC-11 |
| |
|
HAIR CONDITIONER GEL |
|
%, Weight |
| A |
|
Mineral oil |
|
11.0 |
| |
|
ARLASOLVE(r) 200L Isoceteth-20 |
|
27.8 |
| |
|
BRIJ 93 Oleth-2 |
|
6.0 |
| B |
|
Water |
|
41.8 |
| |
|
Propylene glycol |
|
5.0 |
| |
|
Sorbitol Solution, USP |
|
7.0 |
| |
|
FORESTALL |
|
1.4 |
| |
|
|
|
100.0 |
Preparation:
Heat (A) and (B) to 90°C.
Add (B) to (A) with gentle stirring. Cool to 80°C and add make-up water.
Stir until uniform, and pour while still fluid.
A prototype styling/conditioning
mousse is shown in Formula HC-12. It includes FORESTALL as a conditioner,
a silicone copolymer to improve wet combing and polymeric resin for setting.
| Formula HC-12 |
| |
|
STYLING/CONDITIONING MOUSSE |
|
%, Weight |
| A |
|
FORESTALL |
|
1.4 |
| |
|
BRIJ 721 |
|
0.5 |
| |
|
Amodimethicone (and) Nonoxynol-10
(and) Tallowtrimonium chloride |
|
0.1 |
| |
|
Water |
|
78.0 |
| B |
|
Vinylcaprolactam/
PVP/Dimethylaminoethyl
methacrylate copolymer |
|
5.0 |
| |
|
Ethanol, SDA-40 |
|
10.0 |
| C |
|
Hydrocarbon Propellant A-46 |
|
.50 |
| |
|
|
|
100.0 |
Preparation:
Heat (A) to 70°C with stirring
until uniform. Cool to 40°C. Add (A) to (B) with stirring. Pack in
suitable aerosol containers and pressurize with (C) at room temperature.
CAUTION: Ethanol is very flammable! |